We took a bus from Banos to Riobamba - a fairly large city famous only for its train station, from which we were going to take one of the few trains still running in Ecuador south to el Niaz del Diablo (the Devil's Nose) . Riobamba had a certain old Colonial charm and the hostal we stayed in the night before our train ride was great - our room was in the garden and, hoorah, it had wifi!
We got up early the next morning and took a taxi to the station with our prepaid tickets and our cushion reservations. Although there was the option of travelling inside - it was a rite of passage to ride on the roof, so after purchasing rather expensive (for Ecuador) plastic ponchos to protect ourselves from the morning drizzle, we clambered onto the roof. We parked our bums on our cushions on the cold wet roof of the train and introduced ourselves to our travelling companions. Stephanie from Virginia was heading for Cuenca too and hoping for a hotel room with TV and CNN in English from which to watch the US elections.
Our journey took a total of 7 hours through the Ecuadorian countryside with one stop for banos and real food (the vendors who accompanied us sold only lollies and dubious savory snacks). Surprisingly the ride was fairly comfortable and after a while the rain stopped and the sun dried our wet clothes. The highlight of the ride was at the end where we descended down into the valley by an ingenious system of rail changing, and after a half hour at the foot of el Niaz de Diablo doing nothing but admiring the mountain from which we had descended, we used the same system to climb back up.
At the station Ed, Stephanie and I took the bus on to Cuenca. The Day of the Dead celebrations and Independence Day fiesta-ing awaited, followed by the US elections. Ed and I had already decided to take Spanish classes there and stay for a month, so this was going to be a good chance to see what it would be like to live in a city in Ecuador.
Friday, November 21, 2008
EL NIAZ DE DIABLO
Kitted out in waterproofs and plastic ponchos we sit on cushions in the rain on top of the train that will take us to el Niaz de Diablo (the nose of the devil).
Me on top of train with new friend Stephanie. Notice the local greeting of natives of Virginia!
A family out farming watched us as we passed.
The fresh fruit looked inviting, but given our cold empty bellies we plumped for hot banana fritters instead!
Vendors selling warm clothing in the hope that we tourists were ill-prepared for the train ride.
We bought lollies from vendors who travelled with us on the train and threw them down to a bunch of sweet girls at the side of the track.
....and cute muddy boys joined the line too.
.....but i couldn't resist testing the goods.
A possible fixer-upper for my hotel project? A little too remote, methinks!
Ed basks in the sunlight as the rain winds through the countryside.
...clinging to the roof as we drop down into the valley.
....more daring descents.
BANOS, ECUADOR
We resisted the temptation to jump to Cuenca in one go, and were advised instead to visit Banos - an unfortunately named town (for those of you who lack Spànish it generally means toilet/WC/etc) - but which turned out to be rather pleasant. Surrounded by volcanos in various stages of activity - it was actually wiped out in the last century - it boasted hot spring that we weren't inclined to visit as they had been turned into rather unattractive and crowded hot swimming pools, and lots of opportunity for extreme sports.
Hiring a mountain bike and hurtling 16k downhill was as extreme as I was prepared to entertain. We passed waterfalls, dams that showered us with spray and even braved a ride in an ornate 'cradle' across a canyon and back. The best bit was at the end of the ride, where we pedalled into town, loaded our bikes in the back of a van and drove back to Banos!
Hiring a mountain bike and hurtling 16k downhill was as extreme as I was prepared to entertain. We passed waterfalls, dams that showered us with spray and even braved a ride in an ornate 'cradle' across a canyon and back. The best bit was at the end of the ride, where we pedalled into town, loaded our bikes in the back of a van and drove back to Banos!
BANOS, ECUADOR
Tropical Banos.
Ed took a liking to these art deco railings in one of the parks.
Milcocha (a kind of 'taffy') being made in one of the shops in the centre of town.
Landcrabs randomly being sold by a local entrepeneur on the streets of Banos.
Me in one of the most unflattering cycle helmets ever designed trying to look optimistic about my ability to handle the next 16k, luckily mostly downhill!
We took this wonderfully ornate cable car....
.....across this river!
Ed took this picture as we came into 'land' on the other side.
A view of the gorge at the end of our 16k bike ride.
QUITO, ECUADOR
With the usual warnings of possible theft of backpack and other belongings from guide books and travel blogs I was a bit wary of my first stop in south america, but I was pleasantly surprised. Admittedly, we had booked a hostal in the tourist district which was well policed, but even so I didn't have that feeling of watching my back every time I set foot outside. What was a bit bizzarre (yes, Philip, I know how much you like that word) was the daily queue of Ecuadorians lining up to get visas at the Spanish embassy in the same street. I could barely resist the temptation to say "Don't leave.......it's much worse in Spain....recession....property prices diving....few jobs....etc. etc.".......but it's the same dream as always - fortunes to be made in the western world!
One thing amused me more than others while i was waiting for Ed to arrive - the local habit of sending tourists in the wrong direction. e.g. Q - "Where is the nearest supermarket where I can buy fruit and veggies?" - R - "3 blocks this way". Q - "Can you help me, please. I was told there was a supermarket near here, but I can't find it". R - "Oh, it's 4 blocks back that way". This happened also when trying to find a money exchange and a bank......still, it stretched my legs after the endless hours in the plane!
Quito is a mix of old and new - part of it reminds me of Panama City - all tall office buildings and north american chain restaurants, but we took the trolley bus to the historic centre with enormous plazas, magnificent cathedrals and example after example of colonial splendour in the form of museums, government buildings and universities.
The owner of the hotel told us that the cable car ride was well worth it for the view above the city, so we jumped in a taxi and headed for the hills. Quito is already 2,800 m at its lowest and it was a good way to test our breathing ability before we started our travels through the Andes. No problems....but we stopped a lot to take photos. Hope you enjoy them!
One thing amused me more than others while i was waiting for Ed to arrive - the local habit of sending tourists in the wrong direction. e.g. Q - "Where is the nearest supermarket where I can buy fruit and veggies?" - R - "3 blocks this way". Q - "Can you help me, please. I was told there was a supermarket near here, but I can't find it". R - "Oh, it's 4 blocks back that way". This happened also when trying to find a money exchange and a bank......still, it stretched my legs after the endless hours in the plane!
Quito is a mix of old and new - part of it reminds me of Panama City - all tall office buildings and north american chain restaurants, but we took the trolley bus to the historic centre with enormous plazas, magnificent cathedrals and example after example of colonial splendour in the form of museums, government buildings and universities.
The owner of the hotel told us that the cable car ride was well worth it for the view above the city, so we jumped in a taxi and headed for the hills. Quito is already 2,800 m at its lowest and it was a good way to test our breathing ability before we started our travels through the Andes. No problems....but we stopped a lot to take photos. Hope you enjoy them!
QUITO, ECUADOR
Colonial Quito. 
Ed enjoys the sunshine in the historic centre of Quito.
View down to Quito from the cable car.
This is the way up - but are you up for it?
A view down to Quito as we climbed higher.
Ed was experimenting with his new camera, and I didn't do too badly with my first black and white attempt.
We reached a plateau where horses waited patiently for riders who had done enough walking.......but we were hard-core!
Blue skies and rain clouds above Quito.
Me in front of a mountain range surrounding Quito.
The long path up - nearly 4,000 m at the top.
Ed on top of the world (or so it seemed).
On the way down we couldn't resist taking a pik of this lone hiker who couldn't bear to leave his bears at home!
We stopped to buy lollies from a rather miserable woman braced for the approaching rain.
Back to beautiful Quito to prepare for our onward journey.Wednesday, November 12, 2008
PICNIC PARTY - LAC DU JOUARRES, FRANCE
Many thanks to all our friends who came to our picnic party late summer to send us on our way to South America. The weather was fab and it was so great to see so many familiar faces, although a bit sad that Tom was indisposed. I think it would be appropriate for you, Tom, to send your ´St Tom´picture to me so that i can paste it in, thus feeding the idea that you were there in spirit if not in body.
Ed went back to check out our boat in Panama and, sadly, to put his dog Thor to sleep as he had major cancer in his body. We have decided to give the boat to our dear friend David, aka Poppa Neutrino, so that at the ripe young age of 75 he can continue his dream to be the first person to sale around the world on a raft.
Next posting will be from South America - watch this space!
Ed went back to check out our boat in Panama and, sadly, to put his dog Thor to sleep as he had major cancer in his body. We have decided to give the boat to our dear friend David, aka Poppa Neutrino, so that at the ripe young age of 75 he can continue his dream to be the first person to sale around the world on a raft.
Next posting will be from South America - watch this space!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)